The Schist Villages (Aldeias do Xisto) of Portugal are a network of charming, historically preserved mountain villages built primarily from schist stone, nestled in the Serra da Lousã and Serra do Açor regions in central Portugal. Built from dark schist stone and rustic wood, these villages blend into the surrounding forested hills and valleys, giving them a distinctive rustic look. There are 27 officially recognized Schist Villages, each with its own unique identity, festivals, and local traditions.
These villages are not well known internationally as a tourist attraction, but for a Canadian missing the rustic summer or winter cottage experience, they can be very charming. Even though locals may not appreciate the colder temperatures in winter, I find them to be a wonderful weekend escape from the city. Here I will highlight my favourite, Talasnal, which is about a 2 – 3 hour drive from Lisbon or Porto depending on weather.
These villages are partly abandoned, but many homes have been fixed up for rental purposes and can easily be found on AirB&B and other rental sites.
Activities include hiking, wildlife spotting, and tasting local delicacies like wild boar stew and goat cheese, and herbal teas and honeys.
Talasnal (Lousã)
The road to Talasnal, like most schist villages can be treacherous, with lots of extreme curves and switchbacks, steep drops with no guardrails, and very narrow for two way traffic, but at least they are paved. On my last trip, I saw deer, large groups frogs, wild boars, and fallen branches in many places. Use caution and make sure to arrive during daylight hours! The road ends in a parking lot, and the rest of the village must be traversed on foot as it is built into the side of the mountain.
Upon entry to the village, there will be an orientation map for the foot paths to your cottage if you rented one, and maps for all the trail heads that lead outside of the village. There are usually a few restaurants that service both day hikers and those staying overnight.
On the day of my arrival, they were cooking the local specialty, wild boar stew on an open fire. We were sure to come back later to have a bowl. At €19 a bowl, it was definitely tourist pricing, but well worth the price! (pictures will follow)
Typical Schist Village architecture. Many of these places are for rent.
Talasnal is home to hundreds of cats, which I find very enchanting.
Built into the mountainsides, most cabins have an amazing view from the top level windows. But being built of stone, they can be cold in winter. As a Canadian, however, I didn’t mind one bit!
The nature hiking is amazing, and you will see waterfalls everywhere. Many of the paths are built into ancient terraces that were used for agriculture at one time but have long been abandoned and overgrown with lush vegetation. While hiking you will encounter many abandoned huts and watermills.
Some of the paths can be quite strenuous however, as one must sometime scale the side of these terraces and it is challenging. But the trails are well marked so it is hard to get lost.
And as the trails switch back over the streams, there are often ancient footbridges or wooden structures to keep your feet dry. But wear proper footwear nonetheless!
Between 7pm and 10pm the restaurants will open up and you can have a taste of the delicious stew.
After dinner you can just hang out in the nature with the locals and other guests and have a few drinks or a delicious thick hot chocolate, or escape back to your cabin with a good book next to a roaring fire and enjoy the silence.
Of course some of the local wildlife came to visit to try and taste my hot chocolate.
If you are living in Portugal and looking for a weekend getaway, I can’t say enough good things about these villages. They are a bit under the radar when it comes to international tourism, but perfectly suited to any Canadian looking to escape the city for a wonderful wilderness weekend getaway.
Other Villages to Explore
| Serra da Lousã | Serra do Açor | Zêzere | Tejo-Ocreza |
| These villages are nestled in dense forested mountains, rich in biodiversity and hiking trails. | Known for dramatic landscapes and traditional architecture, often near natural river beaches. | Located around the Zêzere River and its tributaries—ideal for kayaking, hiking, and river beaches. | These are the most remote and least touristy, rich in geological heritage and traditional farming. |
| – Talasnal – Cerdeira – Candal – Casal Novo – Chiqueiro – Aigra Nova – Aigra Velha – Comareira – Pena | – Benfeita – Fajão – Vila Cova de Alva | – Álvaro – Janeiro de Baixo – Janeiro de Cima – Barroca – Martim Branco – Figueira – Pedrógão Pequeno – Pedrógão Grande | – Sarzedas – Figueira (Proença-a-Nova) – Madeirã – Erada – Mosteiro |